Reflections on an extraordinary week

Sitting here this morning, clean and having slept more than 4 hours in the night for the first time in a week, with my cup of special Darjeeling tea in hand, my main emotion is one of loss. Loss of the fun and enjoyment of waking up without my seven fellow adventurers and friends and experiencing the banter, the jokes, the aspirations, the reflections and the sheer excitement of it all. Why? Well it was definately one of those 'you had to be there' experiences, but I think the sheer intensity and range of what we did and achieved in 6 days is what makes the transition today so difficult. But here are a few reflections to try and shed some light on how I feel:

Most enjoyable moments:

Looking out the carriage window of the overnight train on the run in to NJP. I was just sitting chatting to Theresa and we were both taking in the sights in the soft, early morning light as the birds and animals started to stir with a few people getting up and about the fields and the canals, and the odd cycle on the paths. Glorious.

Just being with this extraordinary group of people who managed to achieve all of their own personal goals and at the same time help everyone else achieve theirs and definately made the whole much greater than the sum of the parts. It was joyous, intimate (try getting 8 people in a 6 person motorised tuk tuk and bump over the streets of Siliguri and not be intimate!!), together, fun, inspiring and uplifting.

The waves and shouts of hello/goodby from the people on the way up, particularly the children.

Funniest moments

On the bus when Patricia saw a monkey for the first time (think 5 yr old seeing the Dumbo rides in Disneyland for the first time......!)

Sharing a cup of tea with Paul on our break two thirds of the way up the climb. Gist of the conversation:

Paul: Happy birthday Martin, can I ask how old you are?
Martin: Thanks, I had actually forgotten. Yes I am 49.
Paul: Bloody hell 49, you are doing well....
Martin: Oh thanks Paul...
Paul: Well I mean there's not many people of your age who could do this...
Martin: Yes thanks really Paul, I'd stop digging if I were you...
Paul: No I meant that positively. I know a few veterans and ...
Martin: Paul, shall we just get the bill.....

Most satisfying moments

Reaching the top of the climb at Ghum after eight and a half hours of cycling and then down into Darjeeling to the finish. Quite the hardest physical thing I have ever done.

For those with statistical minds:

Time actually in saddle: 6hrs 45mins (elapsed time with stops about 8 hrs 30 mins)
Distance: 54 miles
Ascent: 7,400ft
Heart rate: Average 146bpm, max 164bpm
Calories burnt: 6,080kCal
Average speed: 7.5mph

Humbling moments

Seeing a little boy, probably about five, filthy, dressed in rags, wandering about Kolkata train station. He clearly lived there, one of the many railway children we were trying to do our little bit for.

Watching a young schoolgirl. about ten, emerge from a dilapidated corrugated iron shack in one of the shanty towns in her pristine white school uniform, including socks and pumps, ready to walk to school. For me it exemplified the pride and determination of the families.

The generosity of all those who sponsored us, the money continued to come in whilst we were in India. We think we have just about reached our target of £10,000.

Jaw dropping moments

Watching the sunrise from Tiger Hill (8,000ft) as the  Himalayan peaks, including Kachenjunga, came into view, the sun glinting off their snow capped peaks and the detail emerging gradually as the sun rose into the pink and purple clouds scattered in the morning sky. Awesome.

Bum clenching moments

Skidding on soft sand at the side of the road into the edge of one of the parapets and realising the drop the other side was about 2,000ft....

Watching Philippa scramble up Tenzing Norgay rock and stand on the top. The rock was about 50ft high at the front, at the rear a vertiginous 2,000ft drop with no protection. I suffer vertigo, including vicarious vertigo, and did get onto the rock, but just sat out the rest!

Difficult moments

Few, but the final 4 miles up to Ghum on the ride was just a case of head down and not accepting defeat.

Trying with Nick to decipher the Indian train ticketing system at Kolkata station and make sure we all had berths. We didn't let on at the time, but for a while we only had berths for 5 of us.....

Unpleasant moments

Again, very few, but a dirty bed and the company of bed bugs at the Swiss Hotel was not my high point, neither was trying to dry myself in the morning on a cold, wet towel the most comfortable. But hardly high on the scale of travellers unpleasant moments..

Salivating moments

After the big day on the Tuesday, having had a bracing cold shower in the Swiss Hotel (the one with no heating and for a while no hot water...) we ventured out to find FOOD as we were seriously down on energy and sustenance, and for a beer. As well as a celebration of all making it to Darjeeling, it was my birthday that day, had been Paul's the week before, and was Philippa's on the coming Saturday. To our horror the waiter at the restaurant advised us that due to some political issues the whole area was now dry as of the 7th November (today was tthe 10th!!!). So we celebrated anyway with juice and water.

Imagine us in the Elgin hotel the following afternoon having our authentic colonial high tea experience. Well almost authentic - tea, scones, butter and jam, cakes and biscuits, and pakora with chilli sauce....(yes that's right, pakora with chilli sauce!). A waiter walked by with a bottle of Kingfisher lager, ice cold, on a silver tray. Six pairs of eyes were transfixed, mutual drooling commenced, and then the dawning realistion that we may yet get a celebratory beer!

Most Comfortable moment

Having spotted the beer in the Elgin we ventured up to the Windamere Hotel later that evening to find the bar. True colonial spendour, with a room like a posh granny's front room, replete with comfy sofas, antique furniture, pictures and a colourfully uniformed bar attendant. We sat and chatted, and drank, for a few marvellous hours as if we were long time friends. A lovely, comfortable moment.

Thought provoking moments

Coming down from the simplicity of the mountains and coming across the final build stages of a modern, western style shopping mall, with all the familiar brand names in evidence. Progress......?

The number of soldiers with machine guns and sandbagged emplacements, included a prominently sited jeep mounted gun, at Delhi airport. Weren't there last time I came, disturbing on more than an immediate level...


I could go on, but better not! I think you get the picture that I enjoyed myself hugely.

Just a few special thanks.

To Nick, whose idea to run the route of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway sparked the whole thing off.

To Mr Roy who accompanied us and made the local arrangements and without whom life would have been much more difficult.

To our drivers who were reliable and helpful, and tolerant of the repetitive up we go, down we come again, nature of the journeys.

To Sarah who helped out with the arrangements before we left and kept us in updates.

To the companies who sponsored us and all the individuals who have given money - its a great cause.

To the other seven - would not have been the same without you.

Now, what whall we plan for next year.........

Martin